Posted by: Hap | November 6, 2009

I can tick South America off!

Howdy folks,

It’s official, I can tick the continent of South America off the list as having been lived and worked in. The emphasis in this continent has been more on the living side of things as I have spent 7 and half months in South America, (6 weeks backpacking in Brazil in 2004, 6 weeks backpacking in Colombia in 2007, 6 weeks in Argentina this year and now 3 months in Paraguay) I have spent a lot of that travelling and studying Spanish.

The past month I have been teaching Sebastian, a student that is going to New Zealand on exchange in December – who would of thought a New Zealand speaking English teacher would actually been in demand, haha. I have been teaching him the finer points of the queen’s English, getting him use to the plethora of kiwi slang, teaching him the rules of cricket, educating him how kiwi’s are better than Ozzies (jab jab), showing him how to treat a sheep, having him listen to some quality New Zealand music and having him read some Maori legends. He is now ready, if you see Sebastian walking the streets of Auckland, say g’day, he’ll be going to Rangitoto high school.

I have also become a professional story teller! Yep I have been going around the primary (elementary) schools reading childrens books, well actually the emphasis is more on jumping around like an idiot acting them out as most of the kids don’t understand English. The photo below is me being an airplane, and the 80 kids were meant to be sitting down but it all turned pear shape, ohhh you have to love the enthusiasm of 7 year olds!

It’s usually pretty easy to keep them amused as they haven’t seen a real live person with dreadlocks, and considering until 20 years ago it was illegal to have long hair due to the dictatorship, you can understand why, plus it’s so darn hot here you don’t really want a whole of rope hanging from your head. It was 40˚C today! Bring on the 3˚C days of Ushuaia, although then I will probably be complaining it’s too cold. I leave for Ushuaia on Monday!

I have also made a few guest appearances at Mandy’s school, talking about my goal and my travels. The question time is always quite amusing for both myself and the students. My favourite question was “are you a hippy?”, to which I counter asked the 10 year old boy “What’s a hippy?”, he sharply replied “a person that doesn’t shower”, after having a laugh I replied “well I showered this morning, so I guess I’m not a hippy”. Classic, oh and for the record I’m not a hippy, I don’t make jewelry, I wash my hair, and I value personal hygiene! I just have dreadlocks, that’s all. Remember my names Hap as in happy, not Hip as in hippy.

 

Peace and love man!

Posted by: Hap | November 3, 2009

Down, deflated, lost

Howdy folks, this is a long one explaining my lack of posts the past couple of weeks. Get a cup of coffee and a handkerchief ;) , haha, all good, read on to see where my next chapter will be starting next week.

2 weeks ago this was how I was feeling, these words owned my thoughts, hapworkingtheworld had hit a wall, that wall was made of Antarctic ice. From previous posts you know how hard I have tried to get to Antarctica. 3 years ago my obsession of getting work in Antarctica started, trying to get work at the research bases in Antarctica, which especially saw me applying for cleaning jobs (only position in which I was able to apply for) at New Zealand’s Scott base, only to be turned down each year at the annual recruitment.

Then I turned my attention to getting work on the Antarctic cruise ships and boats that leave from Ushuaia at the bottom of Argentina (hence the reason I came to South America). When I arrived in Paraguay 3 months ago my days were spent applying to all 52 companies that are registered to work in Antarctica, and then all the recruitment companies and all the contacts I got from those emails. But there is only so many rejection letters one man can take. When you want something so much, and you put all your energy and passion and your life into it, only to get rejection letter after rejection, it gets hard, I would of spent 100 hours dedicated to this, and what did I have to show for it at the end, nothing (this is where the sad violin music starts playing and you wipe the tear from your eye).

Then a month ago friends and family sent me news about 2 volunteer positions available for the upcoming Antarctic season, where 2 applicants would be chosen to paint the outside window sills of Scott Base. Most people are probably thinking “painting outside in -40˚C! Even if you paid me I wouldn’t do it, and do it free, you have to be joking”, but for me it was perfect. This was my opportunity, I met and exceeded all the criteria, I was confident, there was hope again. All my energy went into completing the application form, doing all my background homework, ie ringing up and emailing people to see if I was eligible to enter from outside of New Zealand, which I wasn’t, but then I managed to organise a return ticket to NZ, so that didn’t matter etc., signing up to the organisation and paying the fee, and dad did a shit load of work sending it away, as I was unable to from Paraguay.

And then you guessed it, another “your application has been unsuccessful”! The reason my application had been unsuccessful was because my motivation for going to Antarctica didn’t align with what the organisation was looking for. That aside, after 3 years of being rejected for cleaning jobs and then volunteer work, and the countless other jobs, my will, my motivation for Antarctica had reached an all time low, I felt like just sitting back and forgetting about it, I had literally exhausted every possible way of getting there, and exhausted my motivation for it in the mean time.

I tried looking for other things to put my energy into, I grabbed hold of the idea of starting tours here in Asuncion. Perfect, I could put Antarctica on the back burner until next year when I would have a fresh breath of wind. So I planned out the tours, talked to the restaurants, did trial runs etc. Then I started spending my days at the tourist office trying to recruit tourist for my tours. But this market research pointed to one problem, there was no market here, there were no tourists, and the few backpackers that did come here are the adventurous types wanting to get off the beaten track, hence the reason they are in Paraguay, therefore are not the type of travellers to do a tour.

Soooooo, my days continued going to my “Fame” rehearsals, teaching here and there, trying to start up tours etc. I never wrote about this, but I was a part of the Fame musical that is to be held here at the end of this month. I joined it when I arrived here in Asuncion, to try something new out, yep, Hap singing, scary, and dancing, not soo scary but still scary. I enjoyed the experience, being surrounded by energetic teenage girls in leotards dancing around with the unharnessed enthusiasm and confidence that bubbles in adolescents.

Anyway I had been going about my daily business here, but there was something missing. I was feeling lost, not knowing where I was going, I was always going to Antarctica, but I had tried so hard and got nowhere, I couldn’t face going down and trying to find work, my Antarctica batteries were deflated. My tours, I knew they weren’t going to work, but still I pushed on as I needed something, and as for what I was going to do in the summer when Mandy was back in the States with the exchange students, I didn’t know.

So I was lost, deflated, a lack of motivation, I was a skinny stray dog running down the street but not knowing what I was running from and not knowing where I was running to. In fact I wasn’t even running, I was just staying still and the world around me was running, caught up in everyday life, like a person from the countryside coming to New York city and standing in the middle of the road, not knowing what to do, the cars are honking there horns shouting “what are you doing?”, and the country bumkin just stands there not knowing how to cross the road, but still the cars speed past and honk their horns.

It was looking like Hap was going to have to change his name to Sad, I wasn’t myself. I did some soul searching; I just let the traffic pass me by honking their horns while I figured out how to cross the road. Then I realised that the big ice wall in front of me just needed to be pushed over and made into a bridge! I wasn’t being fulfilled here in Asuncion, don’t get me wrong, I love it here, I love the people, I really do love it, but you need a reason to get out of bed in the morning.

So I pushed that bloody ice wall over and made a bridge to Ushuaia, the end of the world. Yep, I had decided that I was going to Ushuaia, Argentina, the port where all the Antarctic bound vessels leave from. How could I not, this was the reason I had come to South America. It wasn’t an easy decision, I had to let certain people down, for example I had to quit Fame, I had to stop teaching a class I had just started, I wouldn’t be here for Mandy’s 30th. But what it came down to was one question “What’s more important, making other people happy or making myself happy?”

On the 9th of November I will fly from Asuncion, yep fly, I had the choice of a 100 hour bus ride or flying, for the same price, ummmmm, yeah I’ll fly. I’m under no illusions as to what my chances are at getting work on the boats to Antarctica, basically they are slim to none, as all the cruise ships have their offices in other countries and just use Ushuaia as a port to leave from. It’s not like I’m going to walk up to a cruise ship and ask if they have work and then start right away. A big recruitment process needs to take place, ie medical checks, are your mentally stable to be working on cruise ships etc. And the private vessels that leave from Ushuaia to Antarctica, they will be organised, they’re going to Antarctica, not some tropical island to relax, they are adventurers that have been planning this trip for a year, they will have their crew all organised.

So basically my hope of getting Antarctic work lies with swine flu coming back with vengeance and hits the cruise ship community and they need someone at the drop of a hat. All I know is that I have more chance, all though not much of a chance, at getting to Antarctica if I’m in Ushuaia compared to being in landlocked Paraguay. I’m not going there to get work, I’m going there to try and get work. All I can do is try. With this decision made I am back to being Hap, I’m alive again, I’m excited about the challenge ahead, I have my tent and my sleeping bag and a free campground waiting for me in Ushuaia, Hap is working the world again, or should I say Hap is trying to work the world.

Nuthin but love to you all.

PS, Sorry for the long post, I had to explain my long absence, I think that is the longest I have gone without writing a post. Once I get to Ushuaia I will keep you more updated and a new place always inspires new writing.

Posted by: Hap | October 17, 2009

A fellow kiwi on an amazing mission

I was hanging out in the downtown Asuncion tourist office as you do, actually I spent over 6 hours hanging out there. I am trying to start up a tour for backpackers etc, but so far my market research points to one major problem, there is no market, haha.

While I was there approaching the rare breed of backpackers I bumped into Annette (pictured above with Javier from tourist office). She is a fellow kiwi who was living in London and then decided to learn how to ride a motorbike so she could travel from Alaska to Argentina. She is currently in Paraguay and has been on the road for over 320 days! If you have time check out her website www.alaska2argentina.co.uk.

Posted by: Hap | October 14, 2009

A fooking shite bus, great ruins and Chilean wine

This is the last post (the link to the 4 previous posts are listed below) about my travels with friends Hazel and Ami from back home who are currently travelling South America. We went on a 3 day mission, camping at Ybycui which is “3 hours” by bus south of Asuncion. Then we went onto UNESCO classified Jesuit ruins of Encarnacion, located at the southern tip of Paraguay. These posts go to show that Paraguay is a travel destination that is more about the adventure, the experiences and people met, “it’s all about the journey man”! Enjoy.

  1. Jesus helping me out
  2. On the side of the road in Paraguay
  3. The never ending road
  4. A bright new day

We woke to Mother Nature’s uncontrollable bladder trickling over Encarnacion. We decided to go and have a wander around Encarnacion and wait for the rain to pass before going to the ruins. After eating dwarfed bananas for breakfast we wandered the wet streets below the bus station that were home to the markets. An experience in itself, the rubbish mixed with the red dirt that had turned into a muddy paste that threatened to break my jandals, horse and carts, leftover food scraps, imposing grey skies all made for an impression that we were at the arse end of Paraguay. In fact we literally were at the arse end of Paraguay, Encarnacion is located at the southern point of Paraguay with Argentina in plain view across the rubbish transporting river. A disclaimer, please don’t be put off going to Encarnacion, these are just my thoughts from one rainy morning in the dirty area of Encarnacion, and although it sounds like I didn’t like it, I actually enjoyed it in a funny way, it makes you appreciate how well we have it living in clean countries.

After the morning of walking around it was no surprise when we caught a Ciudad del Este (the eastern city of Paraguay that borders Igauzu falls) bound bus that it followed the run down third world theme of the morning. I have caught a lot of old dilapidated buses, but this one took the cake. Because you knew that once it used to be a luxury liner, like a 60 year rock star, the years of body abuse showed with a leaking roof leaving some of the seats feeling like a teenage boys socks, broken seats with one having snapped off. Add to this the people packed into the isle of the bus and we just happened to find ourselves at the back of the bus. We stopped along the way to pick up a group of 4 Irish Backpackers who had their tickets for the 5 hour journey to Ciudad Del Este , as the packed bus pulled up you could tell they weren’t impressed. A thick accent that would of been at home in a smoky bar holding a pint of Guinness booms out in disgust “this is a Fookin shite bus”, they ended up refusing to get on.

But for us we only had to stay on the bus for 1 hour, and pushed our way down the aisle trying to avoid the awkward pressing of genitals on unsuspecting passengers in the cramped aisle. At the unmarked stop on the side of the road an old lady also got off with what looked like her month’s supply of groceries. As she was going our way so we helped her with her bags. I asked her what she thought of the ruins, she informed me that she had seen them on TV and had been told they were really nice, but she had never been to them. The funny part about this was that she lived 300 metres from the entrance!

The ruins were a pleasant surprise and the facilities had improved greatly since the guide book had written its report on them. A helpful staff member informed us of the ruins history, and I wish I could recall it all, but it’s something along the lines of the Spanish missionaries came in the late 1600’s, got the locals to build the communities, educated them, spread the word of religion and planted crops etc, but then the communities became too powerful so 167 years or so after them coming the Spanish sent orders to get rid of them. Sorry history isn’t my strong point.

The ruins were spread over the lush green grass of the well kept grounds, unhindered. The beauty of these ruins was that you were free to walk around everywhere and you basically had the place to yourself. From all the other ruins I have visited it is always something that takes away from the experience, sharing it with busloads of other tourists.

What better way to enjoy the ruins than a little picnic. We had set up camp under an archway of the ruins, sipping Chilean box wine and discussing time travel. A policeman approaches us, we’re thinking “ah great here we go, he’s going to tell us we are not allowed alcohol in the grounds and ask for a bribe“. He approaches without saying a word, picks up our wine, shakes his head and says “bad, this is Chilean wine, you should have Argentinian” and then walks off”!

Then it was time to head back into town and catch a bus back to Asuncion, marking the end of our little trip, good times, good memories.

Posted by: Hap | October 5, 2009

A bright new day

This post is a part of a series from my travels with friends Hazel and Ami from back home who are currently travelling South America. We went on a 3 day mission, camping at Ybycui which is “3 hours” by bus south of Asuncion. Then we went onto UNESCO classified Jesuit ruins of Encarnacion, located at the southern tip of Paraguay. These posts go to show that Paraguay is a travel destination that is more about the adventure, the experiences and people met, “it’s all about the journey man”! Enjoy.

We woke up on a comfortable mattress of concrete, as during the night we had moved our tents under a shelter when we felt rain and saw the flashes of lightening in the distance. We were not willing to see if our $50 tents were waterproof.

Who needs a chiropractor when you have Mother Nature to nurture you. The night before when we had arrived at the camp site it was pitch black, so it was quite a surprise to see the beautiful grounds and the even more beautiful waterfall that welcomed us. The best part of it was that we had the whole place to ourselves.

Paraguayan travel tip #456 When you’re at a swimming hole and you see a sign “peligro lugar profundo”, and you know that peligro means danger and lugar means place, but you don’t know what “profundo” means. Don’t worry, it doesn’t mean that it’s a profound place and if you’re simple you’re not allowed to swim. It means, “deep”, that the swimming hole is deep! I find this quite funny, as in New Zealand they would have signs up telling you if it’s shallow.

After hanging with Mother Nature and cleansing ourselves of the days before travel grime if was time to have breakfast (crackers and jam) and wait for the collectivo that supposedly passes at 7am. Unlike the day before, we had more luck, and we were quite excited when we heard the grinding of gears and struggling diesel engine bumping along the dusty dirt road.

Usually when on a bus that never gets over 30km/hr you would be annoyed, but it was quite the contrary on this sunny morning. Because firstly we were stoked that the collectivo actually arrived, secondly, going 30km/hr is better than walking, and thirdly it was a great experience bumping along with the local indigenous old ladies who were going into town and watching the road pass by underneath through one of the wooden floor boards that was missing.

The rest of the day was spent in transit, we only had about 400km to go to Encarnacion, but that required 2 collectivos and a bus, all of which stop along the way picking up people on the side of the road. It was a good time to catch up on some Z’s from the night before and get some Spanish practice with 76 year old Euserbio who was quite interested in where we had come from, what we were doing and if we had turkeys in my country.

We finally arrived in Encarnacion and Mother Nature seemed to be quite sad or maybe she had an uncontrollable bladder, it was pouring. This meant no camping, so we checked into a bus station hotel. But the rain meant that we got to crank up the “stare’o'meter”, which is usually out of control with my dreadlocks and Hazel and Ami’s height. We hadn’t packed raincoats so had call on our boy scout days and purchased some rubbish bags, this made the stare’o'meter go off the charts! Classic.

After searching high and low for a dinner place that had more atmosphere than your grandma’s living room we stumbled across an unsigned back alley Korean restaurant. Six thumbs up to this little gem, by far the best Korean food I have outside of Korea. Note to the Korean crew, I still make funny gurgling noises when doing soju (Korea’s answer to sake) shots.

Posted by: Hap | October 2, 2009

The never ending road

This post is a part of a series from my travels with friends Hazel and Ami from back home who are currently travelling South America. We went on a 3 day mission, camping at Ybycui which is “3 hours” by bus south of Asuncion. Then we went onto UNESCO classified Jesuit ruins of Encarnacion, located at the southern tip of Paraguay. These posts go to show that Paraguay is a travel destination that is more about the adventure, the experiences and people met, “it’s all about the journey man”! Enjoy.

After waiting a couple of hours for a collectivo that never showed up we made our way back to the centre of town. We managed to get a ride down the road that supposedly took us within 8km’s of the camp site. From the sign our “8km” trek started, and then 2 hours later we were still walking along the road that never ended. The prey that our missionary friends did for us must have paid off, as we stumbled across the super friendly old park ranger who was willing to sell us a beer for the road. Walking a never ending road seems a little easier with a beer in hand.

All roads lead to somewhere and ours led to a “light at the end of the tunnel”, well actually it was just a light on the side of the road attached to a ramshackle family house. It was dark; we had been walking for a couple of hours on what felt like a treadmill not a road. We went into ask the family sitting around on miscellaneous chairs and rural objects watching the men fixing a motorbike how much further to the campground. We were answered, “about 4-6 kms more” Paraguayan travel tip #546: don’t trust distances on road signs.

Thankfully the men offered to take us the rest of the way on their motorbikes for a small $5 fee (we didn’t read the small print and actually ended up having to stop off and buy a bottle of petrol as well – cheeky buggers). With Ami and Haze on the back of one bike and me on the other bike we took off following the solo headlight of my bike as the other bike had none, although the driver was using his cell phone to light up the road at times.

The road that never ended finally led to a potholed dirt road, our drivers hooting out load as they drove 2 tall and one dreadlock foreigner, a story they would be telling for the rest of their lives. We finally arrived at the camp site after leaving Asuncion 10 hours prior. We thanked our drivers with new found enthusiasm which can only be found when you know that you are lucky that you didn’t have to experience Paraguayan emergency response services.

What better way to celebrate arriving at our destination than a box of red wine. Travel tip # 679 don’t buy Paraguayan boxed wine, it tastes like something between urine and vinegar with red food colouring, lucky for us we had 3 litres or Argentinean wine in reserve.

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