Hap Working The World

This should read, work on a cruise ship and see the inside of a cruise ship! I was excited yesterday, we arrived back in Ushuaia at 6pm, it was great to see the southern most town from the cruise ship, instead of seeing the cruise ships from the southern most town as I had done so for a month before.

But let me share my day in port with you, which was literally a day in port.

Sunday

1800 Arrive Ushuaia

1815 Start work for passengers last dinner

2300 Finish work early and go out into Ushuaia to enjoy the freedom. And of course I had a few beers, the beer seemed to taste better as well. There is nothing like getting out of your 100 metre cage that has housed you, walking on land, having the freedom of walking up whatever street you would like

Monday

0300 Get from town, back to cabin, get some quick sleep.

0550 Beep beep beep, dazed, confused, wake up

0600 Start unloading passenger luggage

0700 Set up for breakfast buffet for opening at 8am

0900 I am on provision loading team, so have to load all the provisions, eg food etc, for the coming 18 day cruise. As can only be expected the local Argentinean agents were running on local time and saw a lot of waiting. (Other dining room staff are currently embarking new passengers. On a port day we drop guests off in the morning and pick up a new bunch in the afternoon for departure in the evening)

1600 Finished provision loading. Go and get 1 hour sleep before passenger general emergency drill.

1730 Passenger general emergency

1750 I’m writing this blog post quickly before dinner.

1845 Start work

2400 I will finish work all going well. J

So as you can see, a day in port for an assistant waiter aboard an Antarctic expedition ship is exactly that, “a day in port”, although usually we are meant to get 1-2 hours off the boat, but today was not that day.

But I still really enjoyed the day, I spent it doing the kind of work that I love, real kind of work, working with the crew, lifting boxes of random vegetables, working hard but laughing and listening to the Filipino music as we lifted boxes along our human chain. It felt like a holiday from the high pressure environment of the 6 star dining room and intense kitchen. I had a smile on my face which is pretty easy when your working with the energetic fun Filipinos who I am sure are all born smiling.

Every now and then I would get time out on deck as we waited for the next truck to arrive and I would take in the mountains that seemed to take on a new brilliance.

At one point I had 20 minutes off and went onto the pier and looked back over the promenade where I use to go stand every day looking out over the pier and the cruise ships that I so desperately wanted to work on. It was a great feeling looking back over that spot, remembering those countless hours I spent there, thinking, drinking mate, pondering, trying to keep positive, thinking of new plans of how I would make it happen. It was a great feeling to have actually made it, I was standing on the pier working for an Antarctic expedition cruise ship, I had wanted that for so long, and now I was doing it.

OK, I was going to write more, but run out of time. At sometime in the future I will write a post on everyday life on board, do a little video of my cabin etc, give you a little insight, and I will try and get some posts of the landings I have done on Antarctica. This trip I’m currently on is also taking in Faulkland and South Georgia Islands, so hopefully I my schedule coincides with the landings. OK, gotta fly, HAVE A MERRY XMAS.

• It’s your first day of work as an assistant waiter
• You’re a hospitality industry virgin,
• You’re not in any old restaurant, you’re on a 6 star cruise ship,
• The cruise ship is fully booked with all 132 high paying passengers expecting 6 star service,
• You’re crossing the Drake passage that is notorious as the roughest sea in the world,
• Tensions are running high among the staff as the dining room fills up and 4 course meal orders are going left and right,
• You’re in a daze not really knowing what to do or where anything is located, but you’re wanting to be busy and make a good first impression,
• You’ve already had a verbal bollocking from your boss as you didn’t know where something was.
• You’re skinny arms that haven’t worked for 11 months are aching from carrying the trays laden with plates and glasses above your shoulder.
• The last tray run you did you broke 5 crystal glasses,
• The words of your boss are in your head “out here your on stage”

Now you pick up your next tray of crystal glasses, the dining room is packed, your waiter tells you “be careful”, you’re trying to focus on the “care” part of that word, and not the “ful” (fall) part. You raise the tray to above your shoulder, the sway of the ship engulfs you, then you finally straighten up and look out the window to the 3-4 metre (calm conditions for the Drake) swell and feel as though your extremely drunk or on some illusigenic drug. You take your first tentative steps on the rocky dining room floor towards the narrow obstacle course that leads to the dish washing area. Like a baby learning to walk your steps are clumsy, the clanging of crystal glasses ringing in your ear as the tray rests on your shoulder. Through the ringing of clanging crystal, all the words flood your mind “your on show, be careful, be quick”, it feels like you’re in a bad dream, but then you realise “you’re living your dream”!

Hey folks,

If you’re interested to read the article the Sunday Star Times published about my goal, click here.

I’m currently just heading over the Drake Passage, the notorious body of water between Antarctica and Argentina. I should be back in Ushuaia tomorrow evening. Although that means nothing, I’m still working on the boat the whole time, basically we drop one load of passengers off and pick up a new bunch and head off again. Next trip we are going on an 18 day cruise and incorporating the South Georgia islands as well, Sich says there is great wildlife there, in the form of penguins etc, so that should be cool

OK, will post a little video of my first outing on Antarctica in the next day or two.

NBL Hap

Wow, that’s all I can say, it’s been amazing all the comments and emails I have received from everybody, from so many different people, old neighbourhood friends, strangers, uni mates, fellow travellers and you my blog readers.

It really sunk in the other night that I had achieved Antarctica when I finally got some US$ to purchase an internet card and checked my blog. All the comments and messages, it was a really warm fuzzy feeling, THANK YOU all so much for being on my little journey and helping me along the way. There were times when your comments and messages gave me that little bit of motivation, kept me going when I just wanted to say “stuff you Antarctica, just bloody melt”, you all don’t know how much all your supportive comments made, THANK YOU.

I always pride myself on replying to emails and comments, but I have had to draw the line, as I get off work at midnight, come back to my coffin sized top bunk bed and think I will quickly check my email and blog. Well 2 hours later I’m still tapping away, with the dreaded beep beep of my alarm clock drawing closer –speaking of which it’s 1.30am. And as I have been doing the landings (going by zodiac boat to land) during the day I have not been sleeping on my work breaks. This is not good for my Panda eyes I’m developing or my pocket as I have to buy $20 internet cards. So please except my apology if I have not replied to your message, I still love you! And if I spend all my time replying, I can’t spend that valuable hour a day writing a blog.

So once again, a big thank you to my family who give me nothing but support for my nomadic ways. Mandy my girlfriend who is soooo understanding, for example what girlfriend would support her boyfriend to randomly take off 2 weeks before her 30^th birthday probably for 4 months just because he says “I just have to go to Ushuaia and try for Antarctica, it’s now of never”.

There are so many more thank you’s I have to do, but it’s bed time. But one last thank you, THANK YOU to you guys, my blog readers, it’s been great sharing this all with you and having you along and riding the ups and downs with you all, WE DID IT!

Oh yeah, I nearly forgot, Merry Christmas…………………….from Antarctica!

Hey folks,

No, I’m not dead; no I haven’t been arrested staying away on an Antarctic bound ship. But I have officially set foot on Antarctica, twice infact!

The past four days have been full on, they have the saying, “sink or swim”, well the past four days I have felt as though I have had two 10 kg weights tied to each of my ankles, and I’m flailing my skinny little arms around just barely gasping for air as a I get use to this 6 star service. But more on that in coming posts.

So Yep, here’s a couple of photos (and yes I am wearing ladies glasses) from the first landing on Antarctica, was amazing, a desert of whiteness, firstly the beauty hits you, and then just the serenity, the tranquillity, the peacefulness, the silence hits you, I just lay in the snow, reflexed and got consumed by the continent!

Anyway folks, I’m off to bed, it’s been full on, up at 5.15am, in bed just after midnight, breaks during the day, but basically life on the ship consists of work and sleep when you can. I apologise in advance for not replying to emails or comments, I have to pay for internet, and even if I didn’t I just don’t have the time at the moment, but big love to you all. Photo below is of Sich that played the vital part in getting me here.

Nuthin but love Hap

Hey folks,

This is going to be real quick post, I have been running around like a headless chicken all day, buying new shoes, new clothing, and other supplies, like shampoo and shaving cream (Its been a long time since buying that).

I have also been trying to get my medical completed. This involved going to one place to get my x-ray done, another place for my blood, faecal matter and urine sample, another place for my cardio gram, then collecting all the results and taking them to a doctor to do the medical. So I got the stamp of approval on my medical exam. But there were still a few tests I couldn’t complete due the results not being ready (it takes a week for the results to come back from Buenas Aires), so it still comes down to the doctor onboard giving me the go ahead to be able to embark the boat. Here is the email I received:

I advised the ship (Hotel Director and the Doctor) that you will show up tomorrow morning at the pier with all the paperwork. The Doctor will check your medical exams and based on his judgment you will be allowed to board…or not.

Good luck to you and all the best

So yep that’s it folk, tomorrow at 9am (in 10hours) I will be arriving at the pier where the cruise ship is. All going well I will spend the day getting my induction and then the boat leaves in the evening. If you haven’t heard from me in the next couple of days, it means I’m on my way to Antarctica! It hasn’t really sunk in yet, I haven’t had time to sit down and take it in, but it is very close, very close indeed, infact I just saw the boat pull up to the pier.

Oh yeah, another thing, those of you in New Zealand should check out this coming Sunday Star Times, my PR manager Barney (I pay him in smiles) got me an article with the lovely Emma. Those of you not in NZ will be able to view the article on line, just google Sunday Star Times.

OK folks, cheers for all the support, fingers crossed. Butterflies.

The dreadlocks have gone!

I received this email today from the recruitment company I have been dealing with for the job I’m waiting for,

Would you be able to send me your current picture? Our client has certain requirements with regards to hairstyle and I want to make sure yours is acceptable for the vessel’s management.

Boom, I read that, shut the computer down, straight to the hair dressers which was ironically called “new looks”. I walk in and get confused looks, like “mate you’re a hippy, hippy’s don’t get haircuts, haven’t you looked in the mirror”. I say, “I don’t care what you do, just make me look like a 6 star waiter, and please excuse me if I start crying during the process”.

Yep so it looks like I’m going start being carded when going to the pub again, and if it was possible people tell me I look even skinnier! Haha, but Antarctica is getting closer, and by the way, I haven’t cried yet even after I cut myself shaving (twice!).

Here’s the before shot again, when I used to look like I had been through puberty.

The waiting game is a bit of a mind game, constantly trying to keep the mind positive. It’s easy to be positive when things are going well, the real test is to be positive when things are going pear shaped, or in the unknown. But feeling good.

It’s a funny ol game though, do you think positively, “I’ve got the job”, or do you set-up a contingency plan in case it doesn’t work out. By thinking positively you build up your expectations, therefore setting your self up to be let down. My philosophy has been to think positive, and then deal with it when it happens, but easier said than done. Ahhhhh, the good ol mind games aye, us humans are great creatures aren’t we. OK, just thoughts.

I’m not good at waiting; in my opinion if you’re waiting you’re dying, valuable seconds of life you’re not going to get back. My plan was to go camping and hiking and get to know these beautiful mountains that surround this town at the end of the world.

Unfortunately the weather didn’t permit camping, rain, rain, and a lot of the 2 day hikes are still closed due to snow. But in a stroke of luck I met Scottish couple Pablo and Alena and Austrian Peter. We hit it off straight away as Pablo and Alena had very similar relationship troubles with immigration as Mandy and I had, Pablo also getting denied entry into Alenas home country etc, etc. So the past couple of days have been hiking, getting lost, laughing and trudging through bog. Been having a ball, Check out the photos.

Yeah not the best weather for camping when you have a cheap Paraguayan tent that’s meant for 30 degree summers.

Lost again, the swamp has eaten the path again.

Good looking back over the ground you have covered.

Not a bad lunch spot, the clouds parted and the sun managed to pop through, Gold.

The Emerald Lake

Heading up to the Glacier

We made it, time for a cuppa.

Pablo’s vertigo set in, entertaining for us not so much for him.

Me rocking Pablos 1983 ski glasses. Ushuaia in the background.

Still waiting for an email from the cruise ship, but realistically won’t hear back from them until next week, so I’m off hiking and camping for the weekend.

My plan for this post is to document my efforts to find work in Antarctica. I have basically exhausted all options, now it’s just a matter of keeping in contact with them and playing the waiting game, but lets hope I’m on that boat headed to Antarctica at the end of this week! This post is more for my future reference, it may be a bit boring for you, but please read on if you want. If anyone can think of anything else I can try please let me know. OK, here goes my Antarctic work time line from what I can remember.

2007
– First realised that I had to actually to go Antarctica!

• Innocently started surfing the web about working in Antarctica – ohhhh, there’s Science Bases down there, I’ll just go and work in one of those, that was easy. I started emailing them and getting information, found out that bases do an annual recruitment at the start of each year for the coming summer season October to March. Spent countless hours surfing the web, building up Antarctic work knowledge.

   

2008

• Applied for cleaning and field support roles at New Zealand’s Scott Base (100 people applied for 2 cleaning positions)
• Joined my mines Emergency Response Team to make myself more Antarctic Employable. Gained qualifications in first aid (emergency first responder), rope rescue and hands of experience in fire fighting, search and rescue etc

  

   

• Joined the mines airport ground crew, gaining experience in unloading, marshalling, refuelling.

   

  

   

• Contacted the NZ armed forces who run the shop at Scott Base, and have kept in contact.
• Applied to US Mcmurdo Base through NANA services. I even talked Mandy into applying as well, she ended up getting accepted, but turned it down as her unemployable Antarctic boyfriend didn’t get accepted (why would you go to the trouble of getting a work visa for a kiwi when there are 300 millioin Americans that are quite capable of cleaning a toilet)
• Looked into the 4 Australian Bases but they only have qualified specialised positions, ie nothing that I can do
• Looked into the Antarctic Logistical companies, most notably Raytheon, but once again it’s an American company and would only supply a work visa to a specialised position.
• Looked in the British Antarctic Survey.

• Emailed various Antarctic heritage trusts that look after the heritage sites, the old huts down there. For example the British heritage program that runs a souvenir shop and post office in Port Lockroy.
• Started to look into cruise ships, sent out emails to Antarctic cruise ship companies I found on the net.

   

2009

• With all my new rescue qualifications and experience, applied as a cleaner for New Zealand’s Scott Base again (from my past years experience it is basically the only base I have a chance at getting into).
• Applied for a volunteer position to paint the exterior window sills of Scott Base for the New Zealand Antarctic society.
• Kept in contact with the Armed Forces about work in the Scott Base shop.
• Emailed universities
• After unsuccessful base applications my focused moved to cruise ships. So Mandy and I decided to move to Argentina, the home of Ushuaia where the Antarctic bound cruise ships leave from.
• I contacted all 52 companies that are registered under the IAATO (Antarctic tour operator governing body). Found out most boats were already staffed, a lot of boats have Russian boat crew and Pilipino hospitality staff.

• Followed up all the new leads I got from the 52 companies.
• Emailed the cruise ship recruitment companies.
• Before arriving in Ushuaia, had business cards, t-shirts printed, jacket printed.
• Emailed all my cruise ship contacts, cruise ship recruitment agencies etc, telling them that I was in Ushuaia, willing to do anything and ready depart immediately. (4 months ago when I arrived in Paraguay I contact all 52 companies registered under the IAATO to work in Antarctica).
• Visited the two cruise ship companies that actually have offices here in Ushuaia.

   

  

   

• Went to the Prefectura (Its like the navy guys, boating division, something like that, they are in charge of all the goings on in the harbour) and asked about work, getting my zodiac licence (zodiac is the name of the inflatable boats that take passengers from the cruise ships to the land for an outing etc)
• Tried to get into the port where the cruise ships were, but couldn’t pass security guards.
• Made numerous trips to the yacht club to see if I could help crew boats to get experience, also approached the big yachts to see if they were going to Antarctica and needed anyone.

   

• Went and asked at the Naval base to see if they had a way for me to get to Antarctica, but was told that the Navy boats that go to Antarctica leave from Buenos Aires.
• Approached the local newspaper and got them to publish an article on my quest.
• Visited the fishing companies that operate in Antarctica
• Contacted DAP airlines that fly to Antarctica
• Contacted Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions that have a base at Patriot Hills in Antarctica, the only private company to operate on Antarctica.

   

  

   

   

• Went down to port and waited at the entrance/exit with letters for the captains and staff managers on the boat
• Went to local port agents and shipping agents
• Did interview with journalist friend Vicky who is going to do another article on me.

   

  

   

• Contacted SCAR (Scientific Committee of Antarctic Research) and got the list of all countries that have Antarctic science bases.
• Then I emailed all the countries that have science bases in Antarctica, and even the ones that don’t but have Antarctic interests. I offered to volunteer and do whatever work available.
• I have been in contact with 2041,I have talked about them in previous posts, a great company, a great cause, I really want to be a part of it. I went and met the founder Robert Swan the other day at the airport after reading his book in 3 days, great guy, very positive, if I have time I will write about it.

   

   

  So that’s about it, I would of missed something out, but that’s what I can remember for now. If you have any ideas, I’m all ears, and remember, cross those fingers!

Hey folks, I’m still waiting for the cruise ship to hear back from the HR department, this was the email I received a couple of minutes ago:

No news but this is not uncommon. Our mills grind slowly most of the time.
Have fun on the hike and I’ll let you  know if and when anything comes up.

So fingers crossed and I will just keep playing the waiting game (can’t say I’m enjoying the waiting, will prob head off for a hike) 

Today marks day 22 in Ushuaia for me, a place I have become to love, the 4 seasons in one day, the haphazard construction of houses that look like a jumble of lego blocks on a child’s bedroom floor, but they give me a feel of home with the Bach feel about them (for the international readers, a bach is a New Zealand holiday home where the emphasis is on comfort and not flashiness). After land locked Paraguay I am eating up being by the ocean, the mountains. Yesterday I went walking up in the mountains, perched myself on a log, overlooking Ushuaia, watched a cruise ship leave the port, then it started to snow, it’s times like that it’s hard not to get philosophical, yeah the brains been going overtime of late.

One thing I don’t like about Ushuaia, the dogs, it is one angry breed of dog they have down here, they are like the P addicts of dogs. The locals are always telling me to watch out for the dogs, and the other day a friend got bitten while riding her bike. There are dogs in the streets everywhere, stray ones that live in the mountains and in the street. I went for a run the other day, lets just say there were a few occasions where I thought I would have to change my underwear. The dogs are so big here that the local even ride them, check the photo out below!

So what have I been doing here in Ushuaia the past 22 days. Well my life has basically consisted of sleeping in a 6 bedroom dorm, which I don’t mind until the room mates have to catch the 5am bus (the only time bus that leaves Ushuaia), nah it’s all good, met some great people. My original plan was to sleep in my tent, but I don’t think my budget Paraguayan tent would stand up to the snow and wind here, or me for that matter! Plus the hostel has proved invaluable as a meeting place of Antarctic bound travellers with inside knowledge, and not to mention the staffs have been super helpful. I spend my days sitting in “my office” in the hostel (photo below is me in the chair that I call my office). I am basically a part of the furniture here. I am like a beach as the Travellers come and go like the tide – Gosh I’m getting quite poetic aren’t I? Is there a nobel prize for poetry, or maybe I one for talking crap!

People come back from sightseeing and doing boat trips to walk with the penguins, or to see the light house at the bottom of the world, or visiting the numerous museums, or hiking to the glacier and they usually say “are you still there?”. So that’s what I have been doing. Although I did a cool bike trip the other day and went out to the Playa Larga with a great view back over Ushuaia with the mountains as the back drop. I have also been numerous dinners with fellow couch surfers and news friends; it’s not all sitting in the chair, well during the day yes. Good times.

It’s quite funny, travellers arrive and ask me what there is to do in Ushuaia? I just say “theres a national park, or a hike to a glacier, apparently some boats rides etc, I heard they are all pretty good”, “so how long have you been here?” “3 weeks” “oh”. But for me, I’m not here to be a tourist, the reason I am here is Antarctica. I also think I have reached a saturation point in my travels, I need some normality, you know how it is when you been something for a while, it’s like eating chocolate, the first pieces are amazing, then after that its just something you put and in your mouth and eat, you still like it but its not as amazing as the first pieces. That’s when you need to put the chocolate away and have it later when you crave it again. Don’t get the wrong idea I like travel and chocolate, I think I just need a bit of normal life and routine to remind me how amazing travelling is again, at the moment the travel scene is my reality, normality and routine sound quite inviting, a holiday even – haha listen to me, I bet right now all the people sitting in their offices reading this want to inflict some sort of pain on me. OK, I best shut up and wrap this up.

I’m off to play the waiting game. Crickey, I just looked at that photo of me in the chair, I will have to photo shop some arms into that photo! And no I haven’t picked up a herion addiction whilst being in Ushuaia, I just have athletic arms!

Nuthin but love Hap

To keep you updated, I’m still in Ushuaia, I still look like I have a sheeps daggy back side hanging off my head.

You probably want to know what’s happening after yesterday’s blog post. Basically I’m just playing the waiting game. The interview never came into fruition, but the hospitality manager from the cruise ship emailed me back and said:

Your details have been forwarded to the Office as we need to have all Crew vetted through our HR Department. The biggest obstacle in hiring will be the necessary Medical required by law for any Crew onboard as a health certificate needs to be issued by the home country. I will hopefully have a reply by tomorrow and will be able to give you details. As a Crew member onboard we need to make sure all relevant documentation is in order. Enjoy your stay in Ushuaia and hopefully we will see each other soon.

Yep, it looks positive, but I’m not counting my chickens until I’m walking the gangway. I’m no longer nervous about my dreads, there gone burgers, I’m obviously just nervous to hear back, I’m close, I have butterflies in my stomach, my fingers are shaking, sooooo close. I will keep you posted!

This was the question that Gabriel the hostel manager asked me a couple of days ago. When he asked me I made the sound of a wounded walrus mixed with the sound of a president that is pondering sending his country to war, something along the lines of “ooohhhhhhhhummmmmmm”. Ouch what a question.

Because the reason behind myself having dreadlocks is because it has always been in my mind to travel Africa with dreadlocks after a recently returned student from Africa back at University told me “they would love your dreadies in Africa”(I also had dreadlocks in university). From that point I always said when I travel to Africa I would have dreadlocks – sounds stupid, but that’s the reason.

Little did I know I would have to be making this decision for real. As I was walking out the door to go for a walk in the mountains to clear my head of the frustrated Antarctic work battle,  the hostel receptionist excitedly tells me something about a phone call.  It was something along the lines of somebody asking for me and a captain of a cruise ship, and a captain in the hostel today and tells me to check my email. So I get quite excited. But it turns out, I meet the captain, but he is a captain that lives in Australia and has come here to be a passenger on the Antarctic cruise ship.

But, totally coincidentally I check my email, and there are 3 emails from Sich, the kiwi guy I had met a couple of weeks ago who is working on the cruise ships. Well, he’s been emailing me and trying to ring me saying the hospitality people are short staffed and are probably looking for a waiter at short notice and they arrive tonight! But it’s a “6 star” cruise ship, yep not 5 star, but 6 star. In his words, “appearance is everything; the dreadies would have to come off”! So once again I made the above noise, but a little excited, buuuuttttt, nothing is guaranteed, I would have to cut the dreads off for the interview, without having anything guarantee of a job. As I’m making my wounded walrus noise, the receptionist points to my shirt “I will do ANYTHING to work in Antarctica”

So my decision, well put it one way, I just went and bought a razor and shaving cream for my facial hair, the first time in my life I have ever bought a razor. Yep, decision is made, I would chop the dags off, just for an interview. It’s all I have to go on after 3 weeks of job hunting, I have done all I can do, and have nothing to show for it except more rejection emails, this is all I have to go on, but still, nervous times. If I do get an email back and say I have an interview, I will be a whole mix of emotions, happy, excited, nervous, gutted, all put in a blender and blended on high. Waiting now for a reply to my email I sent off, you can imagine my feelings! OH, a massive big sincere thanks to Sich if it all comes off.

As an afterthought. It’s quite ironic. Mandy did my dreads nearly 3 years ago, maybe 2 and half years. Anyway, the day that she finished them we went to have dinner with her co-work and husband. They are adventurers, they had sailed around the world for 4 years with their young family.

At dinner we talked about my goal and the friendly husband asks me “so Hap, how are you going to go to Antarctica?”. This is something you may not know, but I bumbled and said “well, I kinda wasn’t planning on going to Antarctica, I know its a continent but I didn’t really think I needed to”. The husband says “Well if you going to live and work on every continent you have to live and work in antarctica”

That day in Colorado was where the Antarctic seed was sown, my dreads that were just completed that day were there when I reluctantly realised, “shit, I have to work in Antarctica, how am I going to that………..can you work in Antarctica?”.  So if I get the interview the dreads will have to go. They would represent the lifetime of my Antarctic goal, from the start to the completion.